Apo Whang Od tattoo guide: 12 essential things to know before travelling

To avoid getting ripped off or travelling nearly 15 hours to Apo Whang Od Tattoo Village in Buscalan, Philippines without meeting her, as well as to save you time on researching information separately, this practical and honest Apo Whang Od tattoo guide is a must-read before you book anything and set off. It covers everything from Whang Od’s signature tattoo pricing, essential items to bring, tour price comparisons, Apo Whang Od’s age, if Apo is still tattooing, how to reach Buscalan, and more, helping you prepare your journey.

• Apo Whang Od Was Not in Tattoo Village Buscalan: Our Adventurous Journey in Finding the World’s Oldest Tattoo Artist.

1. Is Apo still alive? How old is Apo Whang Od?

According to Apo’s relatives and the 2024 CNN article “I Got Inked by the World’s Oldest Tattoo Artist” by Kathleen Magramo, Apo Whang Od is 107 years old in 2024.

We managed to meet her in person on 4 and 5, September, 2024.

I hope she remains healthy and continues to enjoy life every day, and you get to meet her too.

However, I’d suggest you check with trustworthy tour agencies before you go.

2. Is Apo Whang Od still tattooing?

Nowadays, Apo Whang Od no longer hand-taps the designed Batok tattoo for tourists. Instead, she only does her signature three-dot tattoo.

As a result, tourists usually will get the design tattoo done by Apo Whang Od’s apprentices, plus the signature three-dot tattoo done by the legend herself.

However, in mid-August 2024, when we booked our flights to the Philippines, I noticed that some local tours mentioned “Grace, Apo Whang Od’s grandniece, would be doing the three-dot tattoo instead of Whang Od, though tourists could still take photos with her” (This detail is important, if you see this from a tour agency, ask for clarification before going). A Filipina friend also showed me a photo of her friend who visited Buscalan Tattoo Village around that time. In her photo with Apo Whang Od, I could clearly see that Whang Od’s left hand was in a cast, she was injured.

On September 4, 2024, when we met her, Apo Whang Od was no longer in a cast, but her left wrist was still wrapped in bandages. Although she tried holding the bamboo stick and testing tapping, she was not able to do it for too long.

As a result, our 3 dots tattoo was hand-tapped by Apo’s relative after Apo Whang Od inked 3 dots on us. In the end, Apo also gave us the final taps on it.

3 weeks after we left (September 21, 2024), I messaged the tour agencies to check if Apo was recovered and is able to tattoo the three dots again. They told me Apo Whang Od has started tattooing the 3 dots again (but may with limited sessions, depends on her hands). So fingers crossed she is all healthy and able to give you the tattoo when you visit!

However, I suggest checking the condition of Apo with reliable tour operators again right before you book your flights and trips. And be respectful even if she could not do it.

3. Where is Apo Whang Od located?

The world’s oldest Batuk tattoo artist- Apo Whang Od is usually located in Buscalan Tattoo Village, Kalinga, in the northern Philippines, where she meets travellers from different corners of the world who come to visit her and receive her signature three-dot tattoo.

However, for us, as you can see from the story, instead of Buscalan Tattoo Village, we met her in another city, where she had holiday with her relatives.

Again, I suggest you check with the tour agency (even if you don’t go with them) before you set off.

4. How to get to Buscalan Tattoo Village to meet Apo Whang Od?

As getting Apo Whang Od’s signature three-dot tattoo has become well-known in recent years due to exposure from various major media outlets and social media, there are many different tour organisers nowadays that can take you to Buscalan Tattoo Village directly from Manila, the capital of the Philippines, which takes approximately 15 hours.

Alternatively, you can go there on your own by renting a car and driving yourself, booking a van with a driver, or taking public transportations (though you may need to change transportations a few times). I’ve seen a blogger share detailed transportation information based on his experience; you might can check out his blog for it.

5. Whang Od Buscalan Tattoo Village tour price & the tour we joined

We chose a tour organiser recommended by a Filipina girl we met during a snorkelling trip on Bohol Island. When we noticed she had Apo Whang Od’s signature three-dot tattoo, we decided to ask her about it. She suggested a group tour, but we ended up doing a private tour since we also wanted to visit Vigan City.

Despite the tour turned into quite an adventure in which we faced a few difficulties (as mentioned in the story) and didn’t have a smooth and enjoyable experience, we were still glad to go with the organiser instead of going by ourselves, as they had reliable contacts who kept us updated on Apo Whang Od’s whereabouts and condition. Without that, we might have gone to Buscalan in vain by ourselves, since Apo Whang Od was not in Buscalan those days. Additionally, the driver was great. He drove safely, and I trusted him completely, even during the storm on muddy and foggy roads, when there were mudslides. I didn’t feel scared.

However, due to the organiser’s attitude and how she handled issues during our trip, I probably wouldn’t recommend her.

Still, I’ve included her tour package we joined alongside options from other agencies that I’ve requested quotes from. This is for your reference, in case you are considering joining a Whang Od Buscalan Tattoo Village tour from Manila and want to compare packages and prices.

• Whang Od Buscalan Tattoo Village group tour (2 days 1 night)

Tour agency	Inclusions in the tour package	Tour price
The tour organiser we had	・Round trip van transfer from Manila to Buscalan ・Toll fees, and fuel. ・Village Homestay fee for 1 night in Buscalan (shared room at simple & traditional village home). ・Buscalan environmental fee + village registration fee. ・Tour guide fee in Buscalan. ・Tour coordinator ・2 hosted meals.	3,699 PHP +1,000 PHP (if you want to change to a private room)
FD Travel and Tours	・Van transfer Manila – Buscalan – Manila ・Toll fees, driver’s meal, and fuel ・1 night homestay accommodation in Buscalan (shared room) ・Buscalan environmental fee ・Village registration fee ・Tour guide fee in Buscalan ・Tour coordinator ・3 hosted meals ・Unli coffee and Unli rice ・Free souvenir.	3,400 PHP

• Whang Od Buscalan Tattoo Village private tour (2 days 1 night)

Tour agency	Inclusions in the tour package	Tour price
The tour organiser we had	・Round trip transportation from Manila to Buscalan by van. ・Toll fees, and fuel. ・Village Homestay fee for 1 night private room in Buscalan (be aware, it might be a very simple & traditional village home). ・Buscalan environmental fee ・Village registration fee. ・Tour guide fee in Buscalan. ・Tour coordinator. ・2 meals.	25,000 for 1-2 people
FD Travel and Tours	・Van transfer Manila – Buscalan – Manila. ・Toll fees, driver’s meal, and fuel. ・1 night homestay accommodation in Buscalan (private room at very simple & traditional village home). ・Buscalan environmental fee. ・Village registration fee. ・Tour guide Fee in Buscalan. ・Tour coordinator. ・3 hosted meals. ・Unli coffee and Unli rice. ・Free souvenir.	16,000 per person; 32,000 for 2 people
Independent driver	Round trip transportation from Manila to Buscalan only. (the rest have to organise by yourself).	25,000 PHP for 1-2 people

• Whang Od Buscalan Tattoo Village + Vigan City private tour

Tour agency	Inclusions in the tour package	Tour price
The tour organiser we had	・Transportation (with Toyota van) from Manila to Buscalan to Vigan City and back to Manila. ・Toll fees, and fuel. ・Registration fee. ・Accomodation in both Vigan City and Buscalan (3 night homestays with private room). ・Buscalan tour guide fee. ・Coordinator fee. ・2 meals in Buscalan.	30,000 for 1-2 people
FD Travel and Tours	・Van transfer Manila – Buscalan – Vigan – Manila. ・Toll fees, driver’s meal, and fuel. ・1 night homestay accommodation in Buscalan (private room at simple village home). ・1 night homestay accommodation in Vigan (private room). ・Buscalan environmental fee ・Village registration fee ・Tour guide Fee in Buscalan ・Tour coordinator. ・3 hosted meals. ・Unli coffee and Unli rice. ・Free souvenir. ・Grape Farm Sidetrip	28,000 per person; 56,000 for 2 people
Independent driver	Round trip transportation from Manila to Buscalan only. And for going to different places is extra 6,000 PHP/day. (the rest have to organise by yourself).	25,000 PHP +6,000 PHP/ extra day

Above are the quotations I received on 2, September and 26, September in 2024.

I know the prices seem to vary significantly. I’m even suspicious that each tour offers different prices based on the customers or their mood(not sure really). For example, the Filipina girls we met on Bohol Island mentioned they paid 4,000 PHP per person for a group (joiner) tour. However, when I asked the same organiser they recommended, she told us it would be 3,699 PHP per person, and for a private room, it would be 4,699 PHP per person, so either a private room or shared room, the price doesn’t match. You can also notice it by the above quotation of private tours offered by different agencies, it doesn’t really make sense. These all make me think that this kind of tour probably doesn’t have a set price yet; it all seems quite random.

For the private tour to meet Apo Whang Od and visit Vigan City, we ended up paying 30,000 + 1,500 PHP in total. She informed us (only when we were already close to the destination) that because we had to go to a different city instead of Buscalan to find Whang Od, we needed to pay extra. Initially, they asked for an additional 4,000 PHP, which didn’t make sense since we didn’t even receive a refund for the Buscalan tour guide fee that we didn’t use, as well as the homestay we didn’t use on the second night, and the meal we didn’t have, plus the distance going from that city back to Manila is even shorter than from Buscalan.

Also, before booking, she confirmed that we could pay by credit card, but once they picked us up and we were on the road, she told us that wasn’t possible. As a result, we had to withdraw cash from the ATM three times, which cost us extra fees. There were a few more issues, so I guess you now know why I would not recommend her to you. (For the full story of what happened on the journey and why our route was changed, you can read it here).

Learning from our experience, I highly suggest using the above information as a reference to compare or negotiate prices and packages with the tour organisers you find. Make sure to check the inclusions carefully, and confirm with the organisers when you have any questions, as there may be hidden fees that are not listed, which could lead to additional charges later on. You never know. Also, be direct and pay close attention to the details of their words. Make sure to calculate and check everything yourself instead of relying solely on their information, as I’ve found that much of what they said and the explanations they gave were inconsistent and incorrect.

6. Are there accommodations at Whang Od Tattoo Village Buscalan Philippines?

Yes, there are usually homestays available for tourists to stay while getting Apo Whang Od’s signature tattoo, which provides a chance for the community to earn money. If you join a tour, the homestay is most likely included in the tour package. If you visit Tattoo Village Buscalan on your own, you will need to arrange by yourself.

According to a contact shared by my local friend, the homestay may cost 400 PHP per person per night. Additionally, you will need to pay a 1,500 PHP fee for a Buscalan tour guide (which can have a maximum of five people), plus a registration fee of 100 PHP per person. And be aware that prices may vary among different providers.

Note: either you join the tour or you go to Tattoo Village on your own, I highly recommend asking about the conditions of the homestays and the type of rooms offered (private or shared) by them. To get a clear answer and also photos of the accommodations before booking.

For example, in another city we met Apo, these were the private room and the bed we had.

7. How much does it cost to get an Apo Whang Od signature 3 dots tattoo?

On September 5, 2024, our tour organizer informed us that the cost for Apo Whang Od’s signature three-dot tattoo in the city we met her (with taking our bamboo stick home) was 550 Philippine pesos (PHP) per person, which we paid directly to Apo.

However, when I asked the price from another tour agency- FD Travel and Tours on September 24, 2024, they mentioned that the cost for the 3 dots tattoo is only 300 PHP per person. Additionally, if you wish to bring the bamboo stick home, it would be an extra 100 PHP per person. So, the total price for Apo Whang Od’s signature three-dot tattoo and a bamboo stick with FD Travel and Tours would be 400 PHP per person. If you are interested in other designed tattoos, the cost is higher and depends on the design and size.

I am unsure why there are different prices for 3-dots signature tattoo, as the tattoo fees go directly to Apo Whang Od at the site, rather than to the agencies. We didn’t mind paying more for the tattoo or to Apo, but I want to share this information for your reference, so you are aware that it can happen.

Important note: they only accept cash, so don’t forget to prepare some Philippines Pesos when you visit Apo Whang Od.

8. What does Apo Whang Od signature tattoo- 3 dots mean?

According to the 2024 CNN article “I Got Inked by the World’s Oldest Tattoo Artist” by Kathleen Magramo, and the 2023 Vogue article “Apo Whang Od and the Indelible Marks of Filipino Identity,” the signature tattoo of Apo Whang Od—three dots—represents herself and her two grandnieces, Grace Palicas and Elyang Wigan, whom she has trained as her apprentices. The tattoo means that the Batok (traditional hand-tapping) method will be passed down and continue even after Apo Whang Od is no longer here.

9. What material does Apo Whang Od use for the Batuk tattoo ink?

Apo Whang Od uses traditional, natural materials for the Batok tattoo ink, which is made from a mixture of charcoal and water. This ink is used in the Batok (hand-tapping tattoo) process, that is special in her Kalinga tribe.

10. How should you take care of a Batok tattoo after receiving it?

We suggest putting natural coconut oil or lotion daily after receiving the Batok tattoo, as it helps soothe and moisturise the skin.

If you can, also avoid contact with seawater right after having it and also during the healing process. And try to shower carefully, ensuring the tattoo doesn’t get wet in the first few days.

By following the above ways, our 3 dot tattoos healed well. Mine no longer hurts, and the redness and swelling were gone by week 4. Below are the photos of my three dots’ healing process.

I hope yours heals smoothly too!

11. Essential things to bring when going to Whang Od Tattoo Village Buscalan

• Coconut oil: to use on your skin after receiving tattoos.
• Cash (Philippines Pesos): to pay for the tattoo, expenses at the village, and maybe also souvenirs you want to buy, as where you are going is the traditional village, and they only receive cash.
• Bottled water: if you don’t want to drink or use the village water for brushing your teeth.
• Motion sickness tablets: the mountain road to the north of the Philippines is rough. For people who easily get car sick, it is highly suggested that you bring enough tablets with you during the long drive. But of course, only take it by following the instructions from the doctor/pharmacist. 
• Sleeping bag/pillow case: as where you will be staying is likely to be a very simple and traditional village house, not like a decent hotel. In case you have sensitive skin and do not wish to touch the blanket that homestay offers, you should bring it with you. M brought ours, and it helped.
• Some special items or souvenirs from your home country: to show Apo Whang Od, the world’s oldest Batok artist, and gift her something meaningful. We didn’t think about this before our visit, so we didn’t prepare for it, but it was so cute and surprising to see that Apo Whang Od was interested in my five-coloured bracelets from Taiwan. I ended up placing it on her wrist and wished her a healthy recovery. We also noticed she was wearing other souvenirs from around the world. 

12. The best time to visit Whang Od Tattoo Village Buscalan

Based on the challenging trip we experienced, I highly recommend visiting Apo Whang Od in Buscalan, Philippines, during the dry season to avoid unpleasant difficulties and hassles caused by uncontrollable circumstances.

According to Guide to the Philippines and Secret Philippines , the wet season usually starts from June to November; The dry season is from December to May.

In the wet season, typhoons and heavy rainfall occur frequently, and can lead to mudslides, roadblocks, flooding, and various inconveniences and obstacles to travel. In contrast, the dry season offers less rainfall, making it an easier time for travel.

I wish you a safe trip and great travel.

More articles about Apo Whang Od

For more detailed information and articles about Apo Whang Od, you can read below articles:

Magramo, Kathleen. “I Got Inked by the World’s Oldest Tattoo Artist.” CNN, 5 July 2024, 

https://edition.cnn.com/style/philippines-worlds-oldest-tattoo-artist-intl-hnk/index.html.

Madarang, Rome Jorge. “Apo Whang Od and the Indelible Marks of Filipino Identity.” Vogue, 6 Oct. 2023, https://www.vogue.com/article/apo-whang-od-and-the-indelible-marks-of-filipino-identity.

Anne Collins Howard. “An Ancient Ink Technique Sees New Blood.” BBC Travel, 6 Jan. 2016,

https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20160106-an-ancient-ink-technique-sees-new-blood